How to Propagate Money Tree (Pachira) From Cuttings

Money trees (Pachira aquatica) propagate reliably from cuttings, especially in spring and early summer when active growth is happening. The most successful method is taking a 6-8 inch stem cutting just below a leaf node, removing the lower leaves, optionally dipping in rooting hormone, and rooting either in water (visible progress, slower) or in moist potting mix (faster, fewer disturbance issues). New roots typically appear in 4-6 weeks. Once you have a 1-2 inch root system, pot the new plant in a tropical-friendly mix and treat as a normal money tree.

Why money trees propagate well from cuttings

Money trees (Pachira aquatica or Pachira glabra, sold somewhat interchangeably) are tropical trees from Central and South America. Like many tropical plants, they have strong vegetative reproduction — meaning a piece of stem with a leaf node will readily form roots when given the right conditions.

This is fortunate because money trees rarely flower indoors and seed propagation is impractical for home growers. Cuttings are the standard method.

Best time of year

Spring and early summer (March through July) are ideal. The plant is in active growth, hormones are abundant, and warmth supports root development.

Late fall and winter cuttings can work but root much more slowly (8-12 weeks vs. 4-6 in spring). The plant is partially dormant and energy reserves are lower.

Avoid taking cuttings within a month of repotting, fertilizing, or any other plant stressor. Let the parent plant be in steady-state before propagating.

Step 1: Take the cutting

Choose a healthy stem on the parent plant. Look for a 6-8 inch section that:

• Has at least 2-3 leaf nodes (the points where leaves attach to the stem)
• Is firm and woody, not soft new growth
• Has at least 2-3 healthy leaves above the cutting site

Use sterilized pruning shears or a sharp knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node — the node is where roots will form.

Remove the lower 2-3 leaves from the cutting (these will be buried/submerged and would just rot). Keep the upper leaves intact.

Step 2: Optional — apply rooting hormone

Rooting hormone is a powdered or gel product (sold at any garden center, $5-10) that contains plant hormones called auxins which encourage root formation.

It's optional. Money trees root without it. With it, the success rate goes from ~70% to ~90%.

To apply: dip the cut end of the cutting (just the tip) into the rooting hormone powder. Tap off excess. Then plant immediately.

Step 3: Choose water rooting or soil rooting

Water rooting:

• Place the cut end of the cutting into a glass of room-temperature water.
• Submerge the lower leaf node(s) but keep upper leaves above water.
• Place in bright indirect light. Change water every 5-7 days.
• Roots typically appear in 3-5 weeks.
• When roots are 1-2 inches long, transfer to soil.

Pros: visible progress, you can monitor for rot. Cons: water roots and soil roots are slightly different, so the plant will need a transition period after potting.

Soil rooting:

• Plant the cutting directly into a small pot of moist potting mix.
• Use a tropical plant mix like Molly's Aroid Mix for best drainage and aeration.
• Water sparingly — keep the mix lightly moist, not wet.
• Place in bright indirect light. Cover loosely with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity (optional).
• Roots typically appear in 4-6 weeks. You'll know when the cutting resists a gentle tug.

Pros: no transition period needed, the plant goes straight into its permanent setup. Cons: less visible progress; you have to trust the timing.

Step 4: Pot up the new plant

Once your cutting has a 1-2 inch root system (visible if water-rooted, indicated by resistance to gentle tug if soil-rooted), it's ready to pot.

Use a 4-inch pot with drainage holes. Fill with Molly's Aroid Mix or another well-draining tropical plant mix. Place the cutting so the root system is fully covered but the original cut point is at or just below the surface.

Water once thoroughly. Then water every 1-2 weeks as the mix dries out, the same routine you'd use for a mature money tree.

The young plant will look small and sparse for several months. By the second growing season, it should be a full, normal-looking money tree.

Common problems

Cutting turns black or mushy: rot from too much moisture. Start over with a fresh cutting and less water.

No roots after 8 weeks: the cutting may be from too-old, hardened wood (cut from greener growth next time), the conditions may be too cold, or the cutting may have been taken from a stressed parent plant. Try again in spring.

Roots form but cutting doesn't grow leaves: normal for the first 2-3 months. The plant is establishing root mass before putting energy into top growth.

Leaves drop after potting: common transition stress, especially with water-rooted cuttings. Should recover within 4-8 weeks.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take a money tree cutting to root?

4-6 weeks in spring/summer with optimal conditions. Up to 12 weeks in winter or with poor conditions.

Can I propagate money tree from a leaf?

No. Money trees only propagate from stem cuttings. A leaf alone won't form a new plant.

Do I need rooting hormone?

Optional. Rooting hormone improves success rate but money trees root reliably without it.

Can I water-root the cutting indefinitely?

You can but the plant will eventually need soil for proper nutrition. Water has no nutrients and the plant relies on whatever was stored in its tissues. Move to soil within 2-3 months of root development.

What soil should I use for the new money tree?

A tropical plant mix with good drainage. Molly's Aroid Mix works well. Avoid dense, peat-heavy soils that compact and retain too much water.